Think about a place that is raw and dirty, rich in culture, tradition and family values, vegan-friendly and still on the list of affordable destinations. From Australia, it's Bali and if you want a slice of spirituality and yoga then it's Ubud.
In January of this year, I attended a Yoga Teacher Training in Ubud and although the immersion was intoxicating and delicious in every way the place, the country and the people were amazing ingredients impossible to ignore. There is something special about Ubud and I want to try to capture it here.
This visit was my fourth to Bali and my third to Ubud. Ubud is about an hour away from the international airport, depending on traffic. You will travel through the outskirts of Kuta, the drive begins the incline up into the hills, the business of endless scooters fades a bit and you start to wind through the curvy roads, avoiding trees that have reclaimed their positions, stray dogs that wander freely and parked scooters randomly placed by tourists. On first view, it's a mess, a chaotic drive towards a beautifully photographed resort. As you get closer to Ubud the noise settles, the chaos slows and the age of the structures out the window reaches further back in time. Without the presence of loud commerce, the patina of these older structures is charming and intriguing. Temple after temple, tree after tree, hotel after hotel.
On arrival, you’ll be welcomed by sweet, kind and gentle people, normally nothing is too much trouble for the Balinesians, they are some of the most wonderful people I have ever met. This place - it's the kind of place you want to succeed - I want to be used as a tourist - I want to spend my money here, I want to contribute to their economy. There are not many places I can say that about. Since my last visit (7 years prior) they have commercialised and monetised places for example Monkey Forest, last time I went you could wander in and out like the monkeys. Now there is an entry fee. And I found myself proud of them, rather than annoyed that there was a queue. I wonder how many other places in the world I will feel this way. To be honest, normally anything overly commercialised repels me. As another example, we went to Ceking Rice Terrace, one of the girls on our trip raved about it (her first time in Bali) but when we got there it felt so tacky, there were costumes you could change into to make your Instagram moment happen on a swing. Again I love that they are making money from tourists - I just didn't want to be part of the experience. The staged experiences are not for me, but if you want that moment - it’s a great place to capture it. Each to their own.
There are places in Bali where nature has found a way to coexist with the development and others where nature has reclaimed the manmade as if its own possession. These are some of my favourite places. 
The slow and steady expansion
We were at our resort in a time of expansion, they were building another Yoga shala, which meant some noisy mornings but also a front-row seat in how this traditional culture builds things. As expected it is by hand, brick by brick. The most interesting thing about this is that it was a family affair, every age and sex featured in the long journey of trudging rock from the roadside deep into the jungle. We were there for 4 weeks watching these people young and old carry bags of soil, rock and cement on their heads. When you witness this it creates a love for all the slight unevenness of the floors and the gentle slop of the window. Knowing that it is all done without the modern standards or layers of hierarchy. It's their way and I adore it.
Scooter families - How to get around
The most popular form of transport by far is scooters, you can see some incredible feet of ingenuity in Bali, the things these people can fit onto a scooter are astounding. We once saw a sculpture being transported between two scooters, and one of the drivers was drinking a coconut at the same time. Look out for this it’ll make you feel a whole new way about the vehicle you drive at home. Side note - If you are going to get around on one of these or use the popular app Grab, be careful and hold on - insurance companies rarely pay out for these kinds of injuries.
What to pack?
Bali is humid most of the year but evenings can also be cool, check the weather for the months you plan to be there, but know washing is very cheap so you could pack light, and your resort can assist you with your laundry. Linen and lightweight clothes are recommended. And you must pack sandals.
Food appreciation
While we were there we had the honour of watching the rice paddies be attended to, the flooding, tiling and the planting, individually and by hand. It was such a painstaking process one that made me forever see rice differently. Appreciating where our food comes from is a must if you want to truly enjoy it. The local farmer seemed content in his role, but for us, we were in awe of his patience and speed.
We ate out a lot, our favourite places to eat Vegan in Ubud are Dharma (there are two @dharmacoffee), Alchemy @alchemybali and Zest @zestubud. Each one offers its take on both Western and Eastern delights. Dharma has incredible coffee, lovely sweet staff and a faux-salmon bagel that may have changed my life. Alchemy is where health and vegan come together in a yoga paradise. They celebrate raw food, juices and cakes that will blow your mind. Zest is a treetop wonderland, the menu is vast, the atmosphere is welcoming and the mocktails are spicy with goodness.
Sunsets in Ubud
As the sun sets on the so-called rainy season (it rained once or twice) the sky is lit up with purple and pink clouds that gently darken over the pool. The tropical plantlife silhouettes beautifully in front of the fading sky. Every day we had an incredible sunset. A forced moment of presence and pause. Gratitude fills the soul every time the sun sets in Ubud.
Worship and Gratitude the Balinese way
Worship a diety that suits you, was what I was told. Bali has a very high Hindu population, I learned while in YTT that Hinduism is more of a lifestyle than a religion. It started in a place by the same name and the rituals are based on the behaviours and traditions of those original peoples. It has spread far and wide as the rituals are beautiful and well-linked to a healthy and happy way of living.
All around Bali, you will see temples, each adorned with statues and figures from stories and ideas that aid the people in being true to their deity. For example, Ganesh is a very popular deity said to be the remover of obstacles. He or she will be given an offering or Canang Sari of incense and flowers, maybe some rice, fruits and spices, which are presented in a square woven basket. These offerings are for gratitude and thanks. It’s a practice seen a couple of times a day in Bali and the smelt throughout the day.
If you are lucky enough to visit Bali, I recommend you hire a driver and go beyond the usual tourist traps, visit a small village, batter for a traditional gift and try some of the traditional cuisine. Bali will always have a place in my heart I hope you can get there too to give it a place in yours.
